Charity shop thrifting tips

Decided to give charity shops a try but not sure where to start?

Ok everyone’s had the experience of walking into a charity shop and being hit with a wall of stale, pungent air that conjures up an image of the recently deceased.

Pushing past this, and breathing as little as possible, you may have reached the clothes rails only to find racks of what looks like plastic fast fashion castaways not even worth the pittance they are sold for.

Well this is a pretty accurate picture but what’s lost, if you give up at that point, is the hidden diamonds. My diamonds include a Burberry trench coat, Bally shoes, a silk Ralph Lauren shirt and countless cashmere sweaters. For me, these diamonds make the mustiest, tat filled hoard worth rummaging through.

So how do you find those diamonds in the dump? Here are some tips on finding quality items.

  1. Go to a nice area

Not all charity shops are created equal. Look for clusters of shops in nice, residential areas where people will donate quality items.

2. Look at what things are made of

When an item catches your eye, first look at the label and check what the garment is made from. Avoid plastic (polyester and arcrylic) and look for natural fibres (wool, cashmere, silk, leather) and if you’re vegan (cotton and viscose).

3. Find your colours

We’ve all worn colours that have washed us out or just not looked right. Figure out which colours complement your skin, eye and hair tones, and then when you look at the mass of items, you can easily hone in on ‘your colours’. I’m always looking out for warm browns.

4. Avoid high street brands

Let’s face it there’s a lot of tat in charity shops because a lot of people buy and discard items made by fast fashion brands. While you can sometimes find some naturally made items from high street brands, look out for higher end and designer labels for better cut, fabric and quality.

5. Ignore sizes – just try it on

It’s natural to just look at items in your size but try to ignore sizes and instead try on any item you like the look of. Clothes sizes are not standardized and can vary massively between brands. Vintage items tend to be smaller. Also, some things just look better oversized or tightly fitted. You never know until you try it on.

6. Look out for old lady vintage

You can find some unusual vintage pieces clearly donated by old ladies who haven’t been able to part with their special item for decades. I love trying these on to see what I can pull off and the interesting feel the items give to my wardrobe.

7. Don’t ignore the men’s section

Ok so this tip might not work for everyone but if you’re tall like me there are men’s trousers, jackets, bags and even shoes that can look great.

8. Be brave

Unlike buying new where I try to stick to quality basics, in the charity shops you can go wild and buy some creative choices. The best bit is that when you’re done with something, you can donate it back!

Happy rummaging!

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Know the Origin

Loads of ethical clothing brands in one place in a London shop

Know The Origin is a UK marketplace which curates hundreds of sustainable and ethical clothing. Best thing is they now have a pop up store in Angel, London open until at least Sep 2021.

Is it ethical?

“We’re building Know The Origin to be a home for the richest choice of certified brands. To raise a new standard of sustainability and make ethical the norm for everyone. Forever.” – Get to know us

I’m pretty excited about this. There are now a good number of ethical brands selling online and Know the Origin has brought these brands together so that a physical shop is viable. Ethical clothes can be expensive so it’s wonderful to be able to feel the quality of the fabric and try things on! Here are some of the brands they stock:

Enjoy!

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Charity shop thrifting in London

London is massive and full of charity shops – where are the best areas to plunder?

If you don’t have cash to splurge, charity shops are a goldmine – here are some locations with good clusters.

  1. Angel, Islington

Location Angel tube station

Angel is a gorgeous area to wander around because of the period houses, cafes and upmarket shops. There are a handful of charity shops dotted around and, as this is a desirable area to live, you can fine some quality items.

Here’s my suggested route:

First check out Oxfam opposite Angel tube station, then head down Pentonville Road to Fara. Enjoy the walk back up Chapel Market popping in at Know the Origin as you walk by. Then left along Islington High Street to Cancer Research and Royal Trinity Hospice before finishing at Camden Passage for the vintage shops. If your still thirsty for more, hop on the 73 or 476 bus to Church Street, Stoke Newington from Cross Street (stop EA) for more thrifting.

2. West Hampstead

Location West Hampstead tube or railway stations

Another upmarket area so it’s nice to mooch around, gaze at the gorgeous houses, visit the organic shop, get a nice coffee and walk on to Camden Arts Centre or Hampstead Heath. There are a cluster of charity shops along the high street and the items tend to be decent quality.

3. Mill Hill Broadway

Location Mill Hill Broadway Thameslink station

OK not the coolest area in London but I’ve found a lot of items in the cluster of charity shops along the Broadway. There’s a nice little independent wine shop and a few coffee shops to look out for.

Please leave your suggestions for good London charity shop areas in the comments!

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Shops in London that sell ethical clothes

Where can I find actual shops in London that sell ethical clothing?

Woohoo! I’ve finally found some actual physical shops in London that I can go to and try on clothes and buy ethically.

  1. Know the Origin

Know The Origin is a UK marketplace which curates hundreds of sustainable and ethical clothing. Best thing is they now have a pop up store in Angel, London open until at least Sep 2021.

Is it ethical? 

“We’re building Know The Origin to be a home for the richest choice of certified brands. To raise a new standard of sustainability and make ethical the norm for everyone. Forever.” – Get to know us

I’m pretty excited about this. There are now a good number of ethical brands selling online and Know the Origin has brought these brands together so that a physical shop is viable. Ethical clothes can be expensive so it’s wonderful to be able to feel the quality of the fabric and try things on!

2. Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney is an English fashion designer and daughter of Sir Paul McCartney and American photographer, musician, and animal rights activist Linda McCartney. In 2001, she launched a fashion house and presented her first collection in Paris. She now operates 51 freestanding stores worldwide including London. The clothes are in a range of styles but she’s most famous for her lingerie and active wear.

Is it ethical?

It’s pretty good!

Environment – the brand uses some eco-friendly materials including recycled polyester and organic cotton. It has a strategy in place to reduce waste across its entire supply chain.

Labour – It is a member of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) and it has adopted the ETI Code of Conduct that includes a living wage definition. It traces suppliers in most of its supply chain.

So how are the clothes?

Beautifully designed and expensive. I’ve owned some Stella McCartney underwear before (no longer available) made from gorgeous soft silk. The shop is near my office so I’m definitely going to check it out!

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Natural fabrics

Why you should check what your clothes are made from before you buy

Most clothes these days are made from plastic – find out why this a serious problem and why clothes made from natural fabrics are a better choice.

What are plastic clothes?

When you look at the label of a piece of clothing made from plastic, it’s not going to say plastic, it’s going to use words like polyester, nylon and acrylic. Polyester is a plastic fiber found in an estimated 60% of garments.

Why are plastic clothes bad?

  1. Carbon emissions

The source of synthetic fibers and fabrics is the fossil fuel crude oil. Polyester releases two to three times more carbon emissions than cotton.

2. Waste dumps

Up to 85% of textiles go into landfills each year. That’s enough to fill the Sydney harbor annually. Plastic clothes do not biodegrade naturally and build up to form waste dumps.

3. Polluted oceans

Washing clothes releases 500,000 tons of plastic microfibers into the ocean each year — the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles. It’s estimated that 35% of all microplastics — very small pieces of plastic that never biodegrade — in the ocean came from the laundering of synthetic textiles like polyester. Overall, microplastics are estimated to compose up to 31% of plastic pollution in the ocean.

4. They make you sweat

Plastic clothes don’t give your skin room to breathe leaving you sweaty in the heat nor do they trap air well to insulate you when it’s cold.

5. They look tacky

Plastic clothes are easily affordable. You may be able to buy a wardrobe full but did you really get value for money? Plastic clothes have that characteristic sheen that looks tacky and cheap.

What’s the alternative?

Natural fabrics are sourced from plants and animals and at the end of their lives they biodegrade naturally or can be repurposed or burnt without releasing toxic chemicals. Not only are clothes made from natural materials better for the environment, they also feel more breathable on the skin and look more expensive.

  1. Plant fibers

Plant sources can be used instead of plastic to create natural fabrics. These fabrics include cotton, bamboo, jute, hemp and cellulosic fibers (viscose, acetate, rayon), and are a good choice for vegans.

2. Animal fibers

Obviously not a choice for vegans but natural fibers can also be derived from animals such as wool, silk and leather.

3. Organic

Organic textile is made from plants grown using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment with systems in place to replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilisers, and build biologically diverse agriculture. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed by leading standard setters to define world-wide recognised requirements for organic textiles.

4. Fairtrade

So the gold standard fabric is Fairtrade – it assures standards have been met by the farmers, workers and companies that are part of products’ supply chains.

Why are mixed fabrics bad?

Polyester is often blended with cotton to create a ‘cotton mix’ and acrylic is often blended with wool to create a ‘wool mix’. It’s easy to assume that fabrics with a plastic mix aren’t so bad but that’s not the case. Mixed fabrics often can not be recycled and end up on landfill.

How do I avoid plastic clothes?

  1. Buy from brands that use natural or sustainable fabrics

Not all brands make clothes made of plastic. Often higher end brands use quality and natural materials. Even better, there are companies who use soley organic (no nasty chemicals) or recycled materials. This is something to check on the brands About Us page. Buying new from a clean fashion brand can be expensive, but a great tip is to invest in timeless, high quality basics. Check the brands good on you rating.

2. Check the material of preloved clothes

Whether it’s a great value find in a charity shop or finding a unique vintage piece from the past, shopping preloved is one of my favourite ways to shop ethically. However, when looking for second hand or vintage items, remember to check the label to find out what it’s made of and try to choose natural materials. That way we’re not contributing to microplastics in the oceans when we wash our clothes but also, the clothes are going to feel more breathable and look more expensive.

3. Purge your plastic clothes

I’m not suggesting to discard your entire wardrobe over night. It’s more about starting to form conscious habits. If you’re at the stage were you want a deep clean, I would suggest recycling your plastic clothes were possible because wearing and washing them or giving them to charity and having someone else wearing and washing them will contribute to plastic microfibers pollution.

My hope is that, as more people make conscious choices, the garment industry will take note and start making more ethically produced clothes.

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Ethical logos

What do all those ethical logos mean? Which ones should I look out for?

If you’ve been in the ethical clothing game for a while you’re probably aware of the different logos that pop up on sites. Here’s a post that outlines some to look out for and what they mean.

1. Guaranteed Fair Trade

This logo shows that an organisation is a member of the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO). The WFTO are the global community of social enterprises that fully practice Fair Trade. Their Guarantee System verifies that our members are truly Fair Trade Enterprises. This means they pioneer models of business that put people and planet first.

2. Global Organic Textile Standard

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed by leading standard setters to define world-wide recognised requirements for organic textiles.

3. Fairtrade Cotton

Fairtrade International independently check that their standards have been met by the farmers, workers and companies that are part of products’ supply chains. And in order to reassure consumers that this has happened, they license the use of the FAIRTRADE Mark on products and packaging to signal this.

4. PeTA Approved Vegan

This icon indicates that clothes, shoes and accessories that contain no leather, fur, wool, skin, exotic skins or any other animal-derived fabric.

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Fast fashion – quotes from the experts

So what do the experts have to say about fast fashion? Here are some quotes from academics, campaign groups and industry leaders

On production

“The fashion industry’s use of chemical substances not only pose environmental risks, but health risks for those involved in the industry.”
– Dr Patsy Perry, Manchester University

“While many garments are designed in the US or EU, they are often produced in developing countries. That not only increases fabric waste through poor communication of requirements, but regulations around pollution are often less strict in the countries of manufacture. The waste water is going out into freshwater streams and polluting the rivers that people are fishing and living from.”
– Dr Patsy Perry, Manchester University

On logistics

“The global nature of the fashion industry means clothes may have travelled around the world several times during manufacture.”
– Dr Patsy Perry, Manchester University

On consumption

“The UK has a particular problem when it came to fast fashion. We buy more clothing per head than any other country in Europe, including nearly twice as much as Italians, who are better known for their fashion sense.”
– Libby Peake of the Green Alliance

On returns

“We know that many of the products that are returned end up in landfill before we even use them which only adds to the vast amounts of used items already ending up in landfill… These products use precious resources which are becoming scarce and we are throwing them away unnecessarily.”
– Sarah Needham from the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at University of the Arts London

On solutions

“I don’t think people are going to stop buying stuff, but creating a business model where you’re making it easier for them to make sustainable choices is the money shot.”
– Ann Starodaj, Senior Director of Sustainability at Optoro

“Consumers must understand fashion as more of a functional product rather than entertainment, and be ready to pay higher prices that account for the environmental impact of fashion.”
– Dr Patsy Perry, Manchester University

“Slow fashion is the only sustainable future for the industry and the planet.”
– Libby Peake of the Green Alliance

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Fast fashion – the stats

OK so you know fast fashion is bad – the stats will shock you into action

Collections

In Europe, fashion companies went from an average offering of two collections per year in 2000 to five in 2011. European Parliament

Zara puts out 24 collections per year, while H&M offers between 12 and 16. European Parliament

Consumption

People bought 60% more garments in 2014 than in 2000 and only kept the clothes for half as long. McKinsey

The average person buys 60 per cent more items of clothing every year. BBC Earth

Returns

Each year in the US alone, customers return approximately 3.5 billion products, of which only 20% are actually defective. BBC Earth

Each year, 5 billion pounds of waste is generated through returns.  BBC Earth

Production

Clothing production doubled from 2000 to 2014. BBC Earth

Producing polyester, a plastic fiber found in an estimated 60% of garments, releases two to three times more carbon emissions than cotton. Greenpeace

The fashion industry is also the second-largest consumer of water worldwide. UNECE

It takes about 700 gallons of water to produce one cotton shirt. That’s enough water for one person to drink at least eight cups per day for three-and-a-half years. WRI, Jul 17

It takes about 2,000 gallons of water to produce a pair of jeans. That’s more than enough for one person to drink eight cups per day for 10 years. UNEP

If 3% of garment transportation shifted from ship to air cargo – a burgeoning trend in the industry – it could result in over 100% more carbon emissions than if all garment transportation was by ship. Nature

Waste dumps

Up to 85% of textiles go into landfills each year. That’s enough to fill the Sydney harbor annually. UNECE

The equivalent of one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second. UNEP

Environmental impact

The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of humanity’s carbon emissions – that’s more emissions than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. UNEP

If the fashion sector continues on its current trajectory, that share of the carbon budget could jump to 26% by 2050. EMAF, Dec 17

Fashion production dries up water sources. Business Insider

Textile dyeing is the world’s second-largest polluter of water, since the water leftover from the dyeing process is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers. UNEP

The fashion industry is responsible for 20% of all industrial water pollution worldwide. WRI, Jul 17

Polyester, a plastic fiber found in an estimated 60% of garments, does not break down in the ocean. Greenpeace

Washing clothes releases 500,000 tons of microfibers into the ocean each year — the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles. UNEP, EMAF, Nov 17

It’s estimated that 35% of all microplastics — very small pieces of plastic that never biodegrade — in the ocean came from the laundering of synthetic textiles like polyester. IUCN

Overall, microplastics are estimated to compose up to 31% of plastic pollution in the ocean. IUCN

Solutions

Some apparel companies are starting to buck these trends by joining initiatives to be more sustainable. In March 2019, the UN launched the Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, which will coordinate efforts across agencies to make the industry less harmful. Business Insider

Find out what you can do!

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Keep your clothes alive and well

How caring for your clothes encourages sustainability

OK what’s this all about – clothes care? Sounds boring. Now I’m not advocating ironing underwear or any of that nonsense but giving our clothes a little TLC can keep them sparkling and help them last longer. It’s less about turning into Martha Stewart and more about cultivating good habits.

So what are the tips?

  • Invest in quality
    I believe in building a wardrobe of clothes that we love and caring for the clothes we have. Even items that were acquired from fast fashion brands can be kept looking good with some TLC. That said, it pays to invest in quality clothes, made well from natural fibers. Not only will they last longer, they’ll stay looking good for longer. Well made clothes can last for years and become the vintage of the future. Cheaply made clothes can start to look cheap after a few washes. Check out this blog post about a disintegrating jacket by A petite girl’s guide to…
  • Get to know your washing machine settings
    Instead of throwing clothes into the washing machine on the default setting, try hand washing delicate items or using the hand wash or wool setting on your machine. This will help these items last longer and stay looking new.
  • Airy clothes made from linen and natural fabrics
    Frequent washing eventually takes it’s toll on even the most well made clothes especially long, high temperature, fast spin washes. Airy, armpit freeing clothes made from linen and natural fibres are a good choice for summer because you don’t need to wash them as frequently or on such harsh settings.
  • Invest in a good deodorant
    The subject of personal cleaning products could warrant an entire new blog but suffice to say that the armpits of your clothes will thank you for investing in a good fragrance free deodorant that does not leave stains.
  • Learn to sew
    Ok I’m not advocating learning how to sew your own clothes from patterns (unless your into that) but investing in a small sewing kit and YouTube learning how to sew on a button or stitch up a small hole and keep your clothes alive for longer.
  • Tailors can work wonders
    Perhaps you have once loved clothes that no longer fit or the style isn’t quite right. Before getting rid of such items, ask yourself whether you could get a tailor to make a new item out of your old one.
  • Find a good home for your unwanted clothes
    There’ll always be clothes we need to get rid of. Before throwing these in the bin, try to find a home for your unwanted clothes. If they’re in good condition, they can be donated to friends or charity shops. If not, why not try to recycle them? Mixed fabrics can’t always be recycled so why not cut these up and use for cleaning rags?

Please share your tips in the comments.

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Read up on fast fashion

A lot has been written on the topic of fast fashion – here’s a collect of some shockingly informative articles and reports

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